Article by
Richard Curson:
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Gotham Bar and Grill – New York
Gotham Bar and Grill - New York's Dining Diamond
New York has always been a favourite place for me when it comes to food because discovering the best restaurants is like a game of treasure hunt. If you succeed at finding these little secret eateries you really could be on a humanHi tasting amazing food in phenomenal atmosphere as your reward of treasure!
I went to celebrity chef, Alfred Portale’s restaurant Gotham Bar and Grill in Greenwich Village. Portale is New York’s most influential chef of the moment, leading food into the future. I met friends for lunch, they were journalists one of them a leading food critic (not going to mention names but they had been banging on about this restaurant for months so I simply had to go).
The restaurant serves the finest American Cuisine you will ever find as I discovered. On arrival I was faced by an enormous space with vast high ceilings filled with gorgeous fabric chandeliers and giant vases of extraordinary vibrant flowers.
The tables were all pristine, perfectly laid akin to a royal banquet and the dapper waiters were 2 to a table, fussing over diners who were either discussing business, having social lunches with friends or the romantics on the tables for two taking some intimate time together! Wherever I turned it was a completely different story to the almost secluded secret street outside, but then New York is always full of surprises and that’s what makes it such a special place!
I was greeted by a charming young lady hostess who took my coat to the cloak room and escorted me to the table where my smart looking friends were waiting, pushing my chair in for me and sorting me out with the menu and a glass of champagne! They know how to make you feel at home at Gotham, it’s my new American dining room!
Gotham Bar and Grill is extraordinarily like Cipriani of London in terms of the high standard of service, quality of décor, atmosphere and meticulous attention to presentation and detail. The differences between them are few - Cipriani is famed for celebrity diners whereas Gotham has more of a business clientele although it does attract some celebrities and film stars, however the food at Gotham is absolutely incredible, innovative and inspiring. There is lots of food science happening on the menu and experimental dishes playing flavour and unusual but fantastic combinations, it really is like going to a cuisine college of taste, colour and texture! Delivered with top of the range service!
In this eatery you traditionally have four courses, although you can have just one if you want. For $100 (approximately £55) per person you can enjoy the most discerning lunch or dinner leaving you feeling completely fulfilled. Obviously if you enjoy better wine or caviar you will pay more but the range of offerings on the menu is so great so you can dine to suit your own requirements very easily
I started with Caviar, although not Beluga - the most satisfying of caviars for me, it was a good Californian Golden Osetra priced at $125 for 30g served in a casket of crushed ice with accompaniments. It was a perfect way to kick off lunch by getting the taste buds really going with a light, slightly salty delicacy and served properly
The second course options were brilliantly varied ranging from Morel Mushroom Soup, Alaskan Spot Prawn Risotto and Foie Gras within the extensive menu. I settled for Linguine with Goats Cheese (with cremini mushrooms, baby arugula, and white truffle oil) – the portion was perfectly sized, not too big and not too small, the flavours worked really well together and lifted my pallet tremendously – I could have almost been in the French Rivera on a veranda under the sun with a good glass of red wine and this fabulous goats cheese dish. The truffle oil, although subtle definitely proves attention to detail can make it or break it. It made it for me
We were served excellently throughout. Once we had finished each course the service took the empty plates away discretely like butterflies. We had five minutes of space to catch up on news and gossip before the third course was placed in front of us, the waiters so superb they were almost invisible, it was as if the plate just appeared in front of me
My two friends were served a rack of lamb ( with swiss chard, roasted cipollini and potato pure) and Moroccan Spiced Free Range Chicken (with couscous, chickpeas, harissa and preserved lemon) and my dish was Roasted Maine Lobster (with Jasmine Rice, napa cabbage and honsshimeji mushrooms coconut lime lobster reduction).
The lobster was prepared with such delicateness and the flavours so light and sweet, it was a perfect lobster dish and I was in heaven the whole way through. The Jasmine in the rice was something I have never experienced before, probably because I am not a big rice fan, but it worked so well for me and helped bring out the flavour of the lobster beautifully. The coconut lime reduction was not too overpowering as could easily be, but was in fact working together, the coconut and the lime with the lobster reduction created a delicious light slightly sweet sauce which was just perfect.
I enjoyed a selection of ice creams for dessert and a glass of port before we were ready for the off.
Gotham Bar and Grill is a diamond in the New York restaurant crown. You’ve got to find it first but when you do the rewards are great and the dining experience it provides is of a high international standard. I will be returning.
Reserve your table and try it out!
Gotham Bar and Grill
12 East 12th Street
New York
NY 10003
USA
Reservations: 001 212 620 4020
Confirmations: 001 212 620 0181
www.gothambarandgrill.com